Lenin Peak
Lenin Peak
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The peak was discovered in 1871 and originally named Mount Kaufmann after Konstantin Kaufman, the first Governor-General of Turkestan. In 1928 the mountain was renamed Lenin Peak after the Russian revolutionary and first leader of the Soviet Union, Vladimir Lenin. In Tajikistan, the peak was renamed again in July 2006, and today it is officially called in Tajik Qullai Abuali ibni Sino (қуллаи Абӯалӣ ибни Сино, Ibn Sina Peak or, alternatively, Avicenna Peak) after Abu Ali ibn Sina (Avicena). In Kyrgyzstan, the peak is still officially called Lenin Chokusu (Ленин Чокусу, Lenin Peak).
Some sources give Achiktash as the Kyrgyz name for this 7,134 m mountain on the border with Tajikistan, but it seems that Achiktash, or more properly Achik-Tash, is the name of a plateau and a base camp at an altitude of 3,600 m on a popular northern climbing route to Lenin Peak, which starts in the southern Kyrgyz city of Osh, a day's drive north of the border.
Initial exploration of this part of Central Asia belongs to the period of time between 1774-1782. Arguably the first registered travel through the region is involuntary travel of slave Filipp Efremov (ethnic Russian), who escaped from slavery in Bukhara. He crossed the Fergana valley, then via Osh, the Chigirik Pass and Terekdavan Pass he reached the Kashgar and finally came over the Karakorum. He was the first European who crossed the Alai Mountains.
Scientific expeditions to the Alai Mountains began since 1871, when Alexei Pavlovich Fedchenko has discovered Trans-Alai (Zaalayskiy) Range and its main peak. The first geographical expedition, which came most near to a bottom of the future Lenin Peak in the early 20th century, was arguably expedition of Nikolai Leopol'dovich Korzhenevskiy.
In September 1928 three German researchers (E. Allwein, E. Schneider, Karl Wien) of Soviet-German scientific expedition, made the first attempt to reach the highest point of the Trans-Alai Range, which at that time had name Kaufman Peak.
They started climbing upstream of the Saukdara river along the South slope of Trans-Alai Range also Trans-Alay Range. From the river head they continued climbing along the Greater Saukdara Glacier towards a saddle at an altitude 5820 m (this saddle is also known as the Krilenko Pass). On September 25, 1928 they started climbing from the saddle along the NE Ridge and at 15.30 they reached the first top of the Lenin Peak at an altitude 7127 m (23 382,55 ft.).
The title Lenin Peak for the first time has been applied to the highest point of the Trans-Alai Range in the same year (1928). When it was renamed after Lenin it was believed to be the highest point in the USSR.
On September 8, 1934 at 16:20 three members of a Soviet expedition: Kasian Chernuha, Vitaly Abalakov and Ivan Lukin reached the peak at an altitude 7,134 metres (23,406 ft). The attempt lasted for four days with three camps (5700 m., 6500 m. and 7000 m.). The expedition started routing from the Achik-Tash canyon in the Alai valley. The summit attempt itself was started along the Western ice slope of the Lenin glacier. They continued climbing along North Face, then passing the rocks that later was given name Lipkin's Rocks at the end of second day reached a crest-line of the NE ridge at an altitude about 6500 m. During following day and a half they climbed along the NE Ridge and utterly exhausted reached the summit.
Three years later, in 1937 eight Soviet climbers under the direction of Lev Barkhash reached the summit by the same route. It was the third successful attempt at the time of beginning of mass political repressions in the Soviet Union. Many of most prominent Soviet climbers including Lev Barkhash were brought to trial.
Following attempts to climb Lenin Peak, could not begin until 1950, when the USSR began to recover from the Second World War. On August 14, 1950 twelve climbers (V. Aksenov, K, Zaporojchenko, Y. Izrael, V. Kovalev, A. Kormshikov, Y. Maslov, E. Nagel, V. Narishkin, V. Nikonov, V. Nozdryuhin, I. Rojkov) under the direction of Vladimir Racek reached the summit for the fourth time.
Some sources give Achiktash as the Kyrgyz name for this 7,134 m mountain on the border with Tajikistan, but it seems that Achiktash, or more properly Achik-Tash, is the name of a plateau and a base camp at an altitude of 3,600 m on a popular northern climbing route to Lenin Peak, which starts in the southern Kyrgyz city of Osh, a day's drive north of the border.
Initial exploration of this part of Central Asia belongs to the period of time between 1774-1782. Arguably the first registered travel through the region is involuntary travel of slave Filipp Efremov (ethnic Russian), who escaped from slavery in Bukhara. He crossed the Fergana valley, then via Osh, the Chigirik Pass and Terekdavan Pass he reached the Kashgar and finally came over the Karakorum. He was the first European who crossed the Alai Mountains.
Scientific expeditions to the Alai Mountains began since 1871, when Alexei Pavlovich Fedchenko has discovered Trans-Alai (Zaalayskiy) Range and its main peak. The first geographical expedition, which came most near to a bottom of the future Lenin Peak in the early 20th century, was arguably expedition of Nikolai Leopol'dovich Korzhenevskiy.
In September 1928 three German researchers (E. Allwein, E. Schneider, Karl Wien) of Soviet-German scientific expedition, made the first attempt to reach the highest point of the Trans-Alai Range, which at that time had name Kaufman Peak.
They started climbing upstream of the Saukdara river along the South slope of Trans-Alai Range also Trans-Alay Range. From the river head they continued climbing along the Greater Saukdara Glacier towards a saddle at an altitude 5820 m (this saddle is also known as the Krilenko Pass). On September 25, 1928 they started climbing from the saddle along the NE Ridge and at 15.30 they reached the first top of the Lenin Peak at an altitude 7127 m (23 382,55 ft.).
The title Lenin Peak for the first time has been applied to the highest point of the Trans-Alai Range in the same year (1928). When it was renamed after Lenin it was believed to be the highest point in the USSR.
On September 8, 1934 at 16:20 three members of a Soviet expedition: Kasian Chernuha, Vitaly Abalakov and Ivan Lukin reached the peak at an altitude 7,134 metres (23,406 ft). The attempt lasted for four days with three camps (5700 m., 6500 m. and 7000 m.). The expedition started routing from the Achik-Tash canyon in the Alai valley. The summit attempt itself was started along the Western ice slope of the Lenin glacier. They continued climbing along North Face, then passing the rocks that later was given name Lipkin's Rocks at the end of second day reached a crest-line of the NE ridge at an altitude about 6500 m. During following day and a half they climbed along the NE Ridge and utterly exhausted reached the summit.
Three years later, in 1937 eight Soviet climbers under the direction of Lev Barkhash reached the summit by the same route. It was the third successful attempt at the time of beginning of mass political repressions in the Soviet Union. Many of most prominent Soviet climbers including Lev Barkhash were brought to trial.
Following attempts to climb Lenin Peak, could not begin until 1950, when the USSR began to recover from the Second World War. On August 14, 1950 twelve climbers (V. Aksenov, K, Zaporojchenko, Y. Izrael, V. Kovalev, A. Kormshikov, Y. Maslov, E. Nagel, V. Narishkin, V. Nikonov, V. Nozdryuhin, I. Rojkov) under the direction of Vladimir Racek reached the summit for the fourth time.
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